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Jean Schlumberger, the Alsace-born jewellery designer who conjured jewels for Tiffany & Co, was a famously good cook. So much so that in 1965, he shared his recipes for Pigeons Crapaudine and Poulet Bongard, a fried-chicken dish, with Vogue. It follows that he designed jewels that looked good enough to eat: big, juicy gems encased in filo-pastry-thin settings. And his appetites are largely echoed in this season’s high-jewellery collections, where jewellery houses have employed mouth-watering gems in witty configurations to delicious effect.
Cartier’s necklace from the third chapter of its Nature Sauvage collection takes inspiration from honeycomb, with yellow and white diamonds replicating the gloop of dripping honey and a 2.64-carat fancy intense yellow diamond representing a bee. Meanwhile Lugano’s confection of rose and white gold, quartz, diamond and candy-pink conch pearls less resembles a necklace than a plate of almond-paste strawberry cakes from Milan pasticceria Marchesi 1824. Occasionally, tastes skew sharp: Louis Vuitton’s platinum and diamond Perception brooch boasts the pleasingly angular outline of a triangle of toast. Here, the most delectable pieces from the latest high-jewellery collections.
Chanel gold, diamond and beryl Tweed Byzance brooch. Throughout, all pieces POA
Louis Vuitton platinum and diamond Victoire ear cuff (centre) and platinum and diamond Perception brooch (bottom left)
Lugano white- and rose-gold, diamond, quartz and conch pearl necklace
From top: Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co gold, platinum and
white- and yellow-diamond brooch, gold, platinum, diamond and citrine brooch, and gold, platinum, diamond and topaz brooch
Boucheron white-gold and diamond Roseau brooch
Dior Joaillerie pink-gold, diamond and pink-spinel brooch
Cartier gold and white- and yellow-diamond Nature Sauvage necklace
From top: Graff yellow- and white-gold and yellow-diamond earrings. Van Cleef & Arpels rose-gold, diamond, sapphire, emerald and tsavorite garnet pendant earrings
From top: Chaumet yellow- and white-gold, platinum, diamond, black opal and tsavorite garnet transformable brooch and yellow- and white-gold and diamond brooch
Chopard gold, diamond, ruby, tsavorite garnet and spinel earrings
Bvlgari pink-gold, diamond, amethyst, rubellite, spinel and turquoise earrings
Photographer’s assistant, Valentin Le Marc’h. Digital operator, Manon Clavelier. Set design assistant, Caroline Garnier
