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They’re known as cantucci or cantuccini. Sometimes cantucci Toscani because they derive from Tuscany. And sometimes biscotti di Prato because they originate from the city of Prato, 15 miles outside Florence. The twice-baked almond biscuits are probably the most famous Italian baked treat there is. Now the oldest and most renowned producer in Tuscany is opening its factory to visitors for the first time.
Biscottificio Antonio Mattei was founded in Prato in 1858. The shop still occupies the same premises on via Ricasoli (with the factory behind). In 1867, its founder Antonio Mattei (a “genius in his art”, according to Pellegrino Artusi) showcased his biscotti di Prato – the first on record – at the Universal Exhibition in Paris and won a special mention. Unlike other recipes that include butter or margarine, honey and spices, his are made with just five ingredients: wheat flour, sugar, eggs, almonds and pine nuts. They are crunchier than most with a sweet eggy flavour. The current range also includes chocolate, pistachio and hazelnut cantucci, as well as specialities such as brutti buoni (“ugly but good” biscuits) and fette di pan brioche tostate (toasted brioche slices).
One of the highlights of the tour is the barrage of smells that hits you as soon as you enter: sweet butter, warm chocolate, perfumed hazelnuts – depending on what’s come out of the oven. The “laboratorio” itself is filled with mixers and other equipment where trays lined with biscuit loaves pass into a tunnel oven and emerge 20 minutes later golden brown. These are cut into slices while still hot and bagged by hand.
During the tour you’re regaled with stories about how, for instance, the recipe for orange-butter Mantovana cake was gifted to the founder in 1875 by two nuns from Mantua who were passing on their way to Rome. Or how Ernesto Pandolfini, who took over after Mattei, came up with the idea of packaging the biscuits in hat boxes, still a company signature. Then you’re invited to a tasting, the high point of which is nibbling on biscotti that are warm and soft straight from the oven.
Mattei may be the oldest producer but Tuscany is home to countless others. Among the best is Antico Forno Santi in Migliana near Prato, which has been turning out cantucci since 1920. Alongside its almond biscotti, the bakery produces chocolate, raisin, apricot and fig cantucci. Other distinguished makers include Scapigliati in Florence, Piemonte Dogliani in Carrara, Famiglia Desideri in Montecatini Terme and Marabissi in Chianciano Terme, a favourite for its hazelnut cantucci. A relative newcomer, Fratelli Lunardi is a family business run by two brothers from Quarrata since 1966; its butter-rich almond biscotti are among the crumbliest. A good rule of thumb is to look for cantucci made using few ingredients, which are pale yellow (from the eggs) rather than white.
As for how to enjoy them, tradition says dipped in Vin Santo after dinner. Some dunk theirs in red wine, hot chocolate, frothy cappuccino or cold orange juice in the summer. New York-based chef Jess Shadbolt likes to crush hers, swirl the crumb through ice cream and finish with a generous pour of Vin Santo. There’s nothing about that I don’t like.
Tours are by reservation only and can accommodate up to 12 people per slot. They will run on Saturday mornings until the end of June (and restart from January)
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