A jewellery designer’s guide to Antwerp

Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free

Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.

I was born in Ghent and first came to Antwerp to study at the city’s ballet school more than 15 years ago. I had to give up dancing after I started to experience physical difficulties in my final year, but was lucky to find another passion in jewellery soon after moving here. Antwerp is known as the diamond capital of the world and we are fortunate to have some of the best ateliers and dealers in the city, so there is a lot of knowledge and craftsmanship when it comes to jewellery.  

What makes Antwerp so unique is its creative energy: since the 1600s it has been a hub of different crafts and interesting artistic profiles, from artists such as Peter Paul Rubens and Rinus Van de Velde to fashion photographer Willy Vanderperre and designer Pieter Mulier. There’s a tolerance and openness that makes it a very inspiring place to live, yet everything is still on a human scale. Whenever I travel to a bigger city like Paris or London, I’m always happy to come home.

On a typical Saturday, I’ll start the day with some yoga, then go out for breakfast at the Revista in the south of the city with my husband or friends before catching an exhibition. The Royal Museum of Fine Arts has one of the biggest collections of [Belgian painter James] Ensor in the world, so you can really take your time and stroll around. There are also contemporary galleries such as Tim Van Laere and Axel Vervoordt’s cultural complex about a 15-minute drive from the city. It often has interesting events and presentations from the artists he represents – it’s definitely worth a visit if you have time.

For shopping, I rely on Dries Van Noten – he’s the pope

When it comes to restaurants, we’re very spoilt: there are always new things popping up. One of my favourites is Pottenbrug, a small, family-owned French-Belgian bistro. It feels very authentic, and everything on the menu is good, though I especially like the turbot. If you like fish, Misera, which is in the new part of the south, is also a great choice. But on Sundays, I love going to Arte, a classic Italian that has the best atmosphere – a lot of people come together so you’re always likely to bump into someone. It’s a nice way to end the week and start the next. The cotoletta Milanese is always delicious.

For shopping, I rely on Dries Van Noten – he’s the pope. I try not to buy too many clothes and the great thing about the brand is that you can wear its pieces for a long time and combine them with things you already have. Another great shop is Houben, which stocks chic brands such as The Row, though I have to keep myself away as it is dangerous. And if you like antiques, I’d recommend heading to Kloosterstraat, a street around the corner from my showroom that has lots of vintage and antique shops, as well as Erik Tonen Books, one of the best bookshops in the city. I’m addicted to buying books and I have a big collection of works on vintage jewellery. 

A lot of my inspiration comes from walking around the city – the architecture in Antwerp is a nice mix of modern and very classic buildings, which is something I try to combine in my work. Something most tourists don’t know is that the cathedral in the centre of the city has a garden, which is very secluded. It’s the best place to relax because it’s walled, so you don’t hear anything.

There are always new things to discover in Antwerp and the people are adventurous here – they dare to take risks and build their own stories. Yes, it might be one of Europe’s smaller cities but it’s a very vibrant one with a lot of creativity. Design and craft are still at the core of the city, which gives it a certain energy and a feeling that people can be free and fully themselves. There’s nothing more inspiring than that.