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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Rome
Rome is my city. I was born here, I studied here and I have worked here for most of my life. And yet I am still amazed by all the discoveries I make every day. As an art historian, spending most of my days among the collections of the Galleria Borghese, I’m drawn to details and places that transport me to the Rome of Caravaggio, Bernini and all the great creators who left their mark on the city.
Walking along the busy aisles and colourful stalls of the Campo de’ Fiori, Rome’s oldest open-air market, I can’t help thinking of Caravaggio’s “Boy with a Basket of Fruit”. I love buying fruit and flowers here. When you raise your eyes, you can also see the statue of the 16th-century philosopher Giordano Bruno overlooking the joyful chaos. This little stroll usually sharpens my appetite and I very rarely miss the opportunity to stop at Forno, a bakery on the square that is famed for making the best pizza bianca in the world.
Perhaps lesser known is Rome’s long and rich tradition of producing hand-carved chairs. One of the city’s most celebrated carvers was Lucia Landucci, who worked on a number of princely commissions in the late 18th century, including the renovation of the Galleria Borghese. She created what is widely considered to be the most beautiful chair of Italian neoclassicism. For lovers of exquisite craftsmanship, I highly recommend a detour to the Via dei Sediari, just behind the Palazzo della Sapienza, the once-historic heart of carved and wicker chair design workshops in Rome.
Nearby, along Via Sant’Eustachio, I usually marvel at the window displays of goldsmith and jeweller Diego Percossi Papi, whose creations blend the traditional art of enamelling and carved stones with innovative techniques and modern designs.
Another well-kept secret in the area is the 17th-century church of Sant’Ivo, in the courtyard of the Palazzo della Sapienza. It is a masterpiece of Roman Baroque architecture by Francesco Borromini; the winding spire that resembles a spiral staircase is a stroke of genius. When my friends or colleagues are visiting Rome, I bring them here, followed by a mandatory stop at the Fontana delle Tartarughe with its wonderfully sculpted turtles, one of Rome’s most beloved fountains.
One thing that hasn’t changed in Rome since antiquity is how bustling it is. The poet Horace famously enjoyed the rare moments when he didn’t meet anyone in the Forum: “Ibam forte via sacra, sicut meus est mos . . . ” (“By chance I was going by the Sacred Way, as is my custom”). My favourite escape is Antica Libreria Cascianelli, an antiquarian bookshop full of treasures (probably one of the last of its kind) located near the church of Santa Maria dell’Anima. I look for poetry by Horace and Ovid, or a good book on the Baroque era. They have an incredible selection and also sell old prints, drawings, objets d’art and, I suspect, love potions.
Around the corner, past the Piazza delle Cinque Lune — by definition a magical place — I usually make a stop at Pasticceria Cinque Lune, a tiny bakery where you can enjoy freshly baked Roman specialities, including a delicious local version of Sachertorte.
If I need of even more peace and quiet, I go to Via di Monserrato and visit the design, vintage and artisanal furniture shops. I usually stop by La Jolie Fille. Despite its name, it is a truly Italian boutique selling beautiful handmade dresses and long skirts. I then cross the Tiber for a visit to the Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. It’s one of the most romantic places in the city, where the noise of the neighbourhood seems very distant. Plus, not too far away on Via della Lungara, is the Villa Farnesina, probably my favourite place in Rome. The Renaissance villa was built for banker and art patron Agostino Chigi and is filled with frescoes. You cannot miss Raphael’s homage to Cupid and Psyche. It tells a story of impossible love but in the end, as so often happens in Rome, everyone is happy, even the gods.
What are your Rome highlights? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
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