Food recalls seemed relentless in the U.S. last year. Cucumbers, eggs, even big-brand products such as McDonald’s Quarter Pounders and Boar’s Head deli meats were implicated in dozens of foodborne illness cases, leaving many questioning whether their favorite foods were safe to eat.
But surprisingly, the total number of recalls issued by federal agencies in 2024 actually declined compared with 2023, according to a new report published by the U.S. Public Interest Research Group (PIRG) Education Fund, a nonprofit advocacy group. What did worsen was the severity of outbreaks, with hospitalizations and deaths linked to contaminated foods doubling from the previous year. And experts say these numbers only capture a small fraction of foodborne illnesses occurring nationwide.
Food safety oversight in the U.S. is split between two agencies. One is the U.S. Food and Drug Administration; it regulates more than three quarters of the food supply, including dairy, produce and packaged foods. The other is the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which oversees meat, poultry and some egg products. In 2024 the two agencies announced 296 recalls—a 5 percent decrease from the 313 recalls in 2023. The biggest cause of recalls in 2024 was bacterial contamination, followed by undisclosed allergens such as peanuts and tree nuts.
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While recalls declined, cases of foodborne illness reported to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention rose from 1,118 in 2023 to 1,392 last year. What’s more, the new PIRG report highlights that food recalls caused more severe illness in 2024 compared with previous years. Outbreak-related deaths rose from eight in 2023 to 19 last year, according to the report, which also said hospitalizations increased from 230 in 2023 to 487 in 2024. But the real number is likely “much, much higher,” says Darin Detwiler, an associate teaching professor and food safety expert at Northeastern University, who wasn’t involved in the new analysis. The CDC estimates that about one in six Americans get sick from foodborne illness each year, leading to about 128,000 hospitalizations and 3,000 deaths.
The discrepancy occurs in part because people don’t tend to go to the doctor for common symptoms of food poisoning, such as diarrhea or vomiting “unless they’re really, really sick,” explains Barbara Kowalcyk, an associate professor and director of the Institute for Food Safety and Nutrition Security at George Washington University, who was not involved in the new study. In an experiment carried out between 2012 and 2017 in New York City, scientists searched Yelp restaurant reviews for keywords such as “vomit” or “sick” and found 45 percent more complaints of foodborne illness than city officials would typically receive in that period. “You tend to see the most severe cases in the surveillance system,” Kowalcyk says.
But whether food is becoming less safe generally is more complicated to determine, Kowalcyk says. Less than 5 percent of all foodborne illnesses are linked to an outbreak with an identified source. “So we’re looking at a very small piece of the pie,” she says.
The deadliest outbreak in 2024 involved Boar’s Head deli meats, which were associated with 60 hospitalizations and 10 deaths across 19 states. Inspection reports revealed numerous violations at the company’s plant in Virginia, including unsanitary conditions, which likely contributed to the outbreak. Listeria monocytogenes, the bacteria deemed responsible, can survive in cold environments and remain on surfaces for long periods of time, making it more resilient than other pathogens. In February the FDA announced a recall of frozen shakes delivered to hospitals and care facilities for Listeria contamination, solving a years-old food illness mystery. The frozen shakes were linked to 12 deaths across 21 states, going as far back as 2018, highlighting the challenge of tracing foodborne illnesses to their sources.
Responding to a request for comment, Boar’s Head directed Scientific American to the company’s updated safety response, which emphasizes its “significant progress” in safety and quality measures since the 2024 Listeria outbreak. The improvements included increased Listeria sampling at facilities, third-party sanitation training and the establishment of an independent food safety advisory council.
Escherichia coli and Salmonella were two other bacteria behind several outbreaks last year, including contaminated organic carrots, charcuterie meats, cucumbers, eggs and slivered onions on McDonald’s Quarter Pounder hamburgers. The latter was the “likely” source of 34 hospitalizations and one death, according to the FDA. (A McDonald’s representative directed Scientific American to a food safety portal about the outbreak.) E. coli can spread through irrigation water that has been contaminated with animal feces or via cross contamination, undercooked meat, unwashed produce or poor hygiene. The bacterium can even travel on dust that winds up on produce. Salmonella, one of the most common foodborne pathogens, often originates from poultry but can spread to raw vegetables and processed foods through improper handling or through contaminated water and soil. Fresh produce is particularly susceptible because people don’t always cook it before consumption.
The sheer scale of recent outbreaks, which often spanned multiple states, is another a growing concern among experts. “Look at the number of states involved,” Detwiler says. “It keeps getting larger.” He attributes this to a lack of mandatory holding periods for foods awaiting safety test results. “If companies held products for just 24 hours before shipping, we could contain outbreaks faster,” he says.
People can also continue to get sick long after a recall has been issued. Foods with a long shelf life, such as flour, peanut butter or frozen fruit, are often stored away in household cabinets and might get eaten long after any contamination was detected.
“We need food producers to be accountable, and make sure that the government plays its role in verifying that their food safety systems are working as intended.” —Barbara Kowalcyk, associate professor and institute director
Delays in the food safety notification system can also prevent consumers from quickly finding out about recalls and avoiding affected products. After detecting a contamination that is widespread or poses a significant health risk, the FDA or USDA issue public alerts or recall notices—often, however, one of the biggest challenges for containing an outbreak is the speed with which consumers find out. “It’s literally days that make the difference,” Detwiler says. “Unless these hit the news outlets, consumers need to be proactive and learn of recalls on their own.” Some grocery stores alert customers through loyalty programs, but their contact information may not always be correct, Kowalcyk says. The FDA, USDA and CDC also share food recalls via social media, yet recent executive orders restricting federal health agencies’ external communications add another layer of “great concern,” Detwiler says.
For consumers, the best defense for now is vigilance. Experts advise people should use thermometers to ensure food is sufficiently cooked, follow safe food handling guidelines, including washing hands and utensils, and report foodborne illnesses to public health authorities. Still, Kowalcyk adds, of all the parties involved in the food distribution process, consumers have the least amount of control over the system. “We need food producers to be accountable,” she says, “and make sure that the government plays its role in verifying that their food safety systems are working as intended.”
Detwiler says consumers are often the fastest to react to a food safety issue by avoiding a restaurant or tossing out products, for example. Industry typically adapts quickly to pressure, but “the slowest is the government,” he says. The 2011 Food Safety Modernization Act, which introduced more robust preventative controls for food producers and increased inspections, among other measures—took years to be signed into law and implemented.
Advancements in food safety testing are helping identify outbreaks faster, but experts warn that these improvements won’t solve underlying issues that require better support for food safety agencies—which Kowalcyk says have been “chronically underfunded.” And in recent weeks, the FDA’s top food safety official resigned after almost 90 probationary staff members involved in food safety were laid off following a Trump administration executive order to reduce the federal workforce, though some of the employees have since been rehired. Under the administration, the USDA also disbanded two food safety committees, one of which had been tasked with reviewing regulatory standards for Listeria monocytogenes after the 2024 outbreak in deli meats. Any more cuts will be “problematic,” Kowalcyk says.
“Personally, I predict we’ll see fewer outbreaks and recalls,” she says. “If you don’t look for something, you don’t find it.”
