If kaiseki were a piece of music, it would be a symphony.
The multicourse Japanese haute cuisine opens with a gentle but lively dish (its sonata movement) to pique the appetite before progressing into a series of light sashimi and simmered dishes (the relaxed tempo of the andante). It then rises gently into robust fare (the playful scherzo) and ends with a little flourish in the form of dessert (the brisk allegro).
Kaiseki chefs tweak their menus to ensure the flavors of their dishes unfurl like a gentle wave, a symphony in which every movement is where it should be. That’s why, when a guest who’s none the wiser suggests a change to a dish or declares an allergy just before the meal begins, a chef can get edgy. As the conductor of their orchestra, the chef hears a violin string snap. Harmony is threatened.
