Thousands of Syrians flooded the Ummayad Mosque in the Old City on Friday for the first Friday prayers held since the overthrow of Bashar al-Assad six days ago.
Abu Mohammed Golani, the rebel leader who led the lightning offensive that toppled the regime, had told Syrians to stop working on Friday and to celebrate.
Across Souk Hammidiyah, the labyrinthine market place, the shutters of shops were rolled down, still sporting the two-star flags of an old Syria.
But lining the main street were people selling revolutionary flags, which many toted in the crush past Roman ruins on the way to the 1,300-year old mosque at the heart of the Old City.
Abdullah Mohammed, 41, lives in Damascus and rarely attends Friday prayers at the Ummayad Mosque, but said he made an exception this Friday.
New MEE newsletter: Jerusalem Dispatch
Sign up to get the latest insights and analysis on
Israel-Palestine, alongside Turkey Unpacked and other MEE newsletters
“Today is special. Before, we were slaves, but now we are free and we can say whatever we want,” Mohammed told Middle East Eye. “May god give us better days ahead.”
Mohammed was among jubilant visitors in the mosque’s courtyard. Rebels with guns, children holding flags, Syrians like him from the capital but others who had travelled from hours away milled around the complex, taking photos and videos. The sun shone brightly on ancient golden mosaics.
Haidar, a 33-year-old rebel fighter from Damascus, said he had been living in Idlib, the rebel-held northwestern province that became a sanctuary for many Syrians fleeing from government-controlled areas, but for the past few years and had always believed he would return to the mosque.
“It is the heart of Syria. It is a symbol,” he said. “I always believed I would see it because I believe in God and God has given us this day.”
Alaa Khoudari, a 37-year-old from Damascus’ Midan neighbourhood, told MEE: “I’ve been waiting for this moment for years. I’m so happy to see everyone free.”
Khoudari, who was with her five-year-old son, Kareem, said it was the first time she had ever been to the mosque. “They wouldn’t let me in before. I’m very happy. Inshallah, he will see better days than us,” she said, gesturing to Kareem.
It was compulsory for Syrian imams to pray for Assad in Friday prayers. That tradition was left behind on Friday and, in place of a government-approved imam, an unusual face led the sermon from the prayer hall: interim Prime Minister Mohammed al-Bashir.
“May God have mercy on our souls. Give mercy to the ones that have been in prison. May we have better days in Syria,” said al-Bashir, his voice amplified into the packed courtyard for all to hear.
“Stay with God and have faith, and he will give you days like this. You live in free Syria.”
At the end of prayers, the crowds dispersed into the labyrinthine streets of the Old City, heading to nearby Ummayad Square for an impromptu street party on one of the capital’s largest roundabouts.
Locals slipped through the alleyways and shortcuts they know well, while Syrians from further afield were stuck in throngs of people along the main roads.
Minute by minute, the square filled with more Syrians, the songs of Abdel-Basset al-Sarout, the Syrian footballer turned revolutionary song-writer and rebel who was killed fighting pro-government forces in 2019, blasting into the city full of celebration.
